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Big tech companies have good opportunities to learn, get mentored by more senior PMs and try different roles but they suffer from micromanagement, too much process and politics. The traits you’re looking for would be more common in start ups.
I love being a PM at Amazon. PM’s have a lot of influence and are truly the voice of the customer. Well thought through processes and the detailed and high quality writing culture help me to grow both professionally and personally. While the team may play a big role in your experience with Amazon, I wanted to share that there are people who have good experiences at Amazon too :)