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Pro
The upstream premiumization of the entire industry and the excessive price increases for not “more watch” are killing my desire to add any new pieces. Watch brands are locking out an entire new generation from the hobby and alienating the current generation. Having started my luxury journey back in 2018, I still find myself comparing to what things were back then and what they are now. My dad has even more of a stark experience when he began his journey in the 90s.
Rolex is unobtainable, Omega is crossing near 10k prices and Tudor is near 5k. I tried on a bunch of Brietlings this weekend and was quoted 6k after discounts for the Ice Blue Navitimer. I immediately walked out and figured if I wanted it the next day, I’d buy used off Chrono24. I have zero desire to deal with Rolex ADs or any other hype brands. I walked into four different Rolex ADs here in the Middle East and was told nothing for sale. I’ve been on a waiting list here in the U.S. for over a year. I tried on the new Omega PO and while it’s nice, even with the 15% discount giving it to me 8k out the door, it still felt a lot for the watch, esp. compared to the moonwatch I paid $6800 out the door barely 2 years ago.
At some point, I’ll likely downsize my collection and put it all towards a grail piece like a Lange and keep my wedding/anniversary watches only. I find myself drawn to microbrands - not only because of their much more accessible prices, but also because they’re doing much more interesting things than the major brands - whether it’s dials, designs or even materials. The only downside is that I can’t really try them on easily, but these days you can find a YouTube review about almost anything. I don’t know if the watch industry will ever truly reset price-wise, but I do think the watch industry will be in trouble long-term if they cannot find a way to introduce, sustain and grow interest and accessibility into the hobby esp. as most people outside the hobby don’t stack up multiple timepieces. I know at least amongst my circle that I’m not the only one who feels the thoughts that I have.
Pro
Nailed it. I especially agree about the micro brand thing, that's where all the creativity is nowadays.
Prices increases are normal/standard issue so there's nothing we can do there. You can say the same for current generation not being to buy a house (exaggerated analogy) because it's so darn expensive. That said, instead of hype/premium pieces/brands, I'm going with Tudor, Omega, Zenith, Glashuette Original, etc. Influencers hyped up Rolex, AP, VC and most chase those now. Don't be chaser and go after non hyped pieces. Buying used in Japan has been a great experience for me. Figure out the alternative and don't chase the chase. Homie don't play that!
Lately I feel like watch brands have just become super greedy and it’s pushed me away. I understand raising prices for watches that are selling for over msrp in the grey market, but there’s so many brands that have raised prices 40-50% over the past 5 years and there’s nothing justifying that significant of a price hike. The smugness of Patek with the Cubitus launch and then creating artificial scarcity for it. I don’t agree with tariffs but I feel like high-end watches are actually probably the right thing to tariff since they’re a giffin good and no one truly needs a high-end watch. But these watch brands say, “Oh, we don’t have the margins to absorb these tariffs” but you’re charging $50k for a steel sports watch, you have the margins you’re just greedy. I’m sorry for ranting and I understand none of us actually need these watches but I think it’s a combination of greed from the brands and ad’s playing games that the experience is pretty terrible. There’s nothing specific that I’m after but I’m definitely exploring vintage watches and learning more about other brands that offer a better value