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I went in the fall - needed a PCR test within 3 days to get in. Once we were there we wore a mask once in 6 days in one tiny shop, otherwise it was like a pandemic didn’t exist. Really easy to find a test to leave, I think it was even free!
Recs wise - Driving is really easy, definitely recommend renting a car. Golden circle can be done in an afternoon. Do some hiking - the national park is beautiful and just seemed less overrun with tourists. Blue lagoon is worth the hype, get the one level up package so you can do all the masks and get a couple of free drinks. The lovers passport on Instagram has a bunch of good recs too!!